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Home Improvement

Gedunker

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Maybe it is the age of the carpet, or maybe it is because of the puppies peeing on it, but I am thinking of replacing the carpet in my office. I like the idea of cork. Has anyone tried cork flooring? Does it hold up well? Will it get indented from the furniture?
I used 12" x 12" cork tiles on our kitchen floor when we remodeled about 6 years ago. It is warm and soft and has held up very well to heavy kitchen traffic use, including moving tables and chairs regularly. Even pulling out the fridge to clean behind it caused no problems. I would definitely use it again.:h:
 

Linda_D

Cyburbian
Messages
1,725
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19
It's nice stuff, especially if you have a small, awkward-to-fix "fix". I used it to cover the old lightbox when I had the light over the sink converted from a utilitarian boxed unit to a hanging pendant style. Then I used the same material across the front of the wood panel above the new range hood to cover up the hole where the control panel from the old range hood had been.

I am thinking about doing a remodel of my upstairs bedroom, including replacing the existing window, replacing the drywall (or whatever it is on the existing walls!) and adding a closet (replacing the two inadequate ones) and a bathroom (there isn't one there now). The new bath won't be over the existing bathroom but that's not a problem because the pipes can be boxed and hidden in a future closet on the first floor. OTOH, my plan is to run the pipes down one side of the main load-bearing wall, so I want to make sure that the house structure is in no way compromised.

I'm not going to do this work myself, but hire it out. Should I hire a general contractor or should I hire the carpenter/plumber/electrician/tile guy separately? I should say that I have friends/acquaintances who are professionals who can do all this -- and I know that they do good work. On the other hand, a general contractor can probably get it all done sooner.

Any tips on hiring a general contractor? What about specifying that he use my craftspeople or is that a no-no?
 

WSU MUP Student

Cyburbian
Messages
9,755
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34
Maybe it is the age of the carpet, or maybe it is because of the puppies peeing on it, but I am thinking of replacing the carpet in my office. I like the idea of cork. Has anyone tried cork flooring? Does it hold up well? Will it get indented from the furniture?
We have cork planks in our den and we love it. It's only been in there about a year and a half, but it is really a warm flooring and a nice change over traditional wood flooring. It is a bit softer (one of the reasons we wanted it our den, hoping that it would help absorb noise) and does show indentations more readily, but we knew that going in and was sort of a selling point for us. While it does have dents here and there, it hasn't developed any large gouges, even after dragging our heavy furniture across it.

We would eventually like to redo the kitchen and the hallways between there and the den and would consider cork for those areas as well. I would actually like it throughout the house, except for the bathrooms.
 

Veloise

Cyburbian
Messages
5,601
Points
28
...I am thinking about doing a remodel of my upstairs bedroom, including replacing the existing window, replacing the drywall (or whatever it is on the existing walls!) and adding a closet (replacing the two inadequate ones) and a bathroom (there isn't one there now). The new bath won't be over the existing bathroom but that's not a problem because the pipes can be boxed and hidden in a future closet on the first floor. OTOH, my plan is to run the pipes down one side of the main load-bearing wall, so I want to make sure that the house structure is in no way compromised.

I'm not going to do this work myself, but hire it out. Should I hire a general contractor or should I hire the carpenter/plumber/electrician/tile guy separately? I should say that I have friends/acquaintances who are professionals who can do all this -- and I know that they do good work. On the other hand, a general contractor can probably get it all done sooner.

Any tips on hiring a general contractor? What about specifying that he use my craftspeople or is that a no-no?
Get a GC to create the plans and manage the project, and give him (assumption) your preferred subs' names.

In my upstairs, I removed a badly designed closet, and had the space turned into a half bath. Used the existing exhaust pipe from the full bath as a conduit for the new plumbing. Added a badly-needed window in that exterior wall (now I can see when/who is on my driveway), not to mention light and ventilation.

Because I hired one carpenter for rough framing, a plumber for the pipes, another carpenter for more framing and the window (he vanished), and another pair for finish, it looks like it was designed by a committee.
Plumber centered his work on the two respective walls, so when the window was added, the stack is off-center from it.
The small stylish vanity I picked out would have worked if the toilet had been positioned closer to the opposite wall...I ended up unloading it on Craigslist for the purchase price, and going with a small wall-mount sink.
Pair of guys framed in the stack pipe with excessive material, and when they installed the toilet, they left it at an angle because they didn't leave enough room for the tank. And they kept disappearing, leaving my garage full of their tools and equipment.

The above sounds very Suessian, but it's actually okay. I did the finish work, adding some visual tricks that make the spaces look balanced.

If I ever do this again, I would go with one competent project manager who can keep things moving.

Oh, and I learned how to finish drywall taping, and lay 1" glass tile. Happy with the final results, more so than I would have been if some contractor had gotten to have that fun.
 

kjel

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I'm not going to do this work myself, but hire it out. Should I hire a general contractor or should I hire the carpenter/plumber/electrician/tile guy separately? I should say that I have friends/acquaintances who are professionals who can do all this -- and I know that they do good work. On the other hand, a general contractor can probably get it all done sooner.

Any tips on hiring a general contractor? What about specifying that he use my craftspeople or is that a no-no?
It depends on your comfort level. Do you want to have the work done all at once or is it something you will do a little bit at a time? If you use a general contractor to manage the project but want to use your subcontractors then you should let that be known-I'd also get a basic estimate from your craftspeople you are considering BEFORE engaging a GC so you know if you are getting hosed or not on the GC's estimate and contract. Regardless of hiring a GC or you acting as your own, I would recommend a sit down with all your trades at the same time to go over the scope of work so they can coordinate their specific parts of the job and so you don't end up with a situation like Vel's. Make sure to check each the GC's and subcontractor's professional licenses (most states have an online database to do so) and that they are adequately insured (ask for the insurance certificate!).
 

Zoning Goddess

Cyburbian
Messages
13,853
Points
39
Today I taped the newly- painted doors so I could paint the trim. RJ had given me 2 partial cans of white paint. I couldn't get them open although I did give myself a nice gash across my right palm with a chisel. :not: The kid came out and got them opened but there was a lot of rust under the lid and so the paint was full of rust chunks. It wasn't until I had RJ on the phone about it that I realized it was interior paint, anyway.

Back to Home Depot....
 

Zoning Goddess

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39
Today I taped the newly- painted doors so I could paint the trim. RJ had given me 2 partial cans of white paint. I couldn't get them open although I did give myself a nice gash across my right palm with a chisel. :not: The kid came out and got them opened but there was a lot of rust under the lid and so the paint was full of rust chunks. It wasn't until I had RJ on the phone about it that I realized it was interior paint, anyway.

Back to Home Depot....
Today, 4.5 hrs painting/taping/painting and I'm not even halfway done on the doors to the porch/pool. And it was in the 40's this morning! My left shoulder hurts. :(
 

Zoning Goddess

Cyburbian
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13,853
Points
39
Today, 4.5 hrs painting/taping/painting and I'm not even halfway done on the doors to the porch/pool. And it was in the 40's this morning! My left shoulder hurts. :(
Another 3.5 hrs and I'm 95% done with the two french doors. Maybe I'm too anal and RJ would have painted these in 30 min. Only 2 regular doors left. Maybe I'll get done this weekend. Then the interior doors will look like crap, and we'll have to go there.... :-c
 

Richmond Jake

You can't fight in here. This is the War Room!
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18,277
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43
Can anybody recommend an effective product to remove wallpaper? It's not actually wallpaper but a paper trim where the wall intersects the ceiling. Our master bathroom currently looks like hell. :not:
 

imaplanner

Cyburbian
Messages
6,673
Points
27
Can anybody recommend an effective product to remove wallpaper? It's not actually wallpaper but a paper trim where the wall intersects the ceiling. Our master bathroom currently looks like hell. :not:
we have had some limited success with that DIF stripper stuff. I found it wasn't some magical solution but it did make it quite a bit easier to remove. Even with the stripper it still sucked though.
 

kjel

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Can anybody recommend an effective product to remove wallpaper? It's not actually wallpaper but a paper trim where the wall intersects the ceiling. Our master bathroom currently looks like hell. :not:
What have you done to it so far?
 

Richmond Jake

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What have you done to it so far?
All the printed surface is easily removed and most of the backing. But there is some stubborn backing that won't come off. I've been using a putty knife for scraping purposes.
 

mike gurnee

Cyburbian
Messages
3,066
Points
30
All the printed surface is easily removed and most of the backing. But there is some stubborn backing that won't come off. I've been using a putty knife for scraping purposes.
water and putty knife... and patience. and they call it 'strippable' wallpaper! My first house had the ceilings papered.
 

kjel

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All the printed surface is easily removed and most of the backing. But there is some stubborn backing that won't come off. I've been using a putty knife for scraping purposes.
You can try spraying it with a 50-50 mix of vinegar and hot water, let it sit for a while to soften it up then scrape it-use a rounded edge scraper.

What are you planning to do with the wall afterwards?
 

Gedunker

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You can try spraying it with a 50-50 mix of vinegar and hot water, let it sit for a while to soften it up then scrape it-use a rounded edge scraper.

What are you planning to do with the wall afterwards?
Whether you use the vinegar/water, or the DIF, the essential part is highlighted above. I'm talking five to seven minutes working time. Then you can scrape it off pretty easily.
 

Richmond Jake

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43
water and putty knife... and patience. and they call it 'strippable' wallpaper! My first house had the ceilings papered.
You can try spraying it with a 50-50 mix of vinegar and hot water, let it sit for a while to soften it up then scrape it-use a rounded edge scraper.

What are you planning to do with the wall afterwards?
I have matching paint for the room to paint where the paper was hung.

Whether you use the vinegar/water, or the DIF, the essential part is highlighted above. I'm talking five to seven minutes working time. Then you can scrape it off pretty easily.
Patience? Let it sit for a while? Five to seven minutes? Clearly you people have not met me. I have the patience of a gnat.

I went with Piranha liquid spray remover. It got mixed reviews on the Home Depot and Lowe's interwebs sites. Here's my experience this morning: 1) make sure the paper is well scored, 2) dampen all the paper with Piranha, don't leave anything dry, 3) when spraying have paper towels handy to wipe up drips, 4) wait about 30 seconds (not the 15 minutes on the instructions) and start scraping. It came off very easy. I recommend the product.

Maybe I'll start painting tomorrow...I hate painting.
 

kjel

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I have matching paint for the room to paint where the paper was hung.



Patience? Let it sit for a while? Five to seven minutes? Clearly you people have not met me. I have the patience of a gnat.

I went with Piranha liquid spray remover. It got mixed reviews on the Home Depot and Lowe's interwebs sites. Here's my experience this morning: 1) make sure the paper is well scored, 2) dampen all the paper with Piranha, don't leave anything dry, 3) when spraying have paper towels handy to wipe up drips, 4) wait about 30 seconds (not the 15 minutes on the instructions) and start scraping. It came off very easy. I recommend the product.

Maybe I'll start painting tomorrow...I hate painting.
Make sure you wash the wall down with a damp sponge or cloth very well to get all the glue residue off and then make sure it's completely dry. Proper surface preparation is the key to a good looking long lasting paint job.
 

Richmond Jake

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Make sure you wash the wall down with a damp sponge or cloth very well to get all the glue residue off and then make sure it's completely dry. Proper surface preparation is the key to a good looking long lasting paint job.
Does this take long? 8-! :eek:|




I think I did a good job on the clean up.
 

Cardinal

Cyburbian
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10,080
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34
I am dealing with the same issue in our front hall. It was papered by the prior owner. It appears as if they papered over older paper in part of the hall, or at least the wallboard underneath is in rough shape. Even in other areas when I finally get everything off, the wall is a bit chewed up and does not have the sand texture of the remainder of the wall where there was no wallpaper. I found the best solution is the guy I plan to call next week to come in and do the work for me. I'll do the final painting and put my energy into replacing the doors.
 

Richmond Jake

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...... I found the best solution is the guy I plan to call next week to come in and do the work for me........
This is the best advice ever. If I ever post, "I think I can do this project," somebody call me on it because I have such limited home improvement skills.
 

kjel

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This is the best advice ever. If I ever post, "I think I can do this project," somebody call me on it because I have such limited home improvement skills.
I was going to tell you that but figured you'd get mad :D Don't feel bad, my other half doesn't have any skill at fixing stuff around the house or putting anything together without something going wrong or injuring himself.
 

Richmond Jake

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I was going to tell you that but figured you'd get mad :D ......
Thanks, assclown. ;) I love you too.

Anyway, I finished the painting this afternoon. The color is a good match but it's going to require another coat. More climbing the ladder and painting. :-@ But that's for next weekend.
 

dandy_warhol

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9,016
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32
We'll be going to the local home show next weekend to get some quotes and info on some home projects. We've been discussing finishing our basement, building a patio, and doing some dog-friendly landscaping. Or maybe just using the money for a big trip.
 

dandy_warhol

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9,016
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32
Our house was built in 1929. It does not have a fireplace but it does have an old chimney that runs through the middle of the house and was formerly connected to the furnace. We got a new HE furnace a few years ago and it just vents out the side of the house. The chimney is only about 4 sq ft. but those 4 sq ft would be useful in our small kitchen. If we were ever to redo the kitchen part of me wants to demo the chimney and better utilize that space. Does this sound feasible?
 

ofos

Vintage Cyburbian
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8,278
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27
Our house was built in 1929. It does not have a fireplace but it does have an old chimney that runs through the middle of the house and was formerly connected to the furnace. We got a new HE furnace a few years ago and it just vents out the side of the house. The chimney is only about 4 sq ft. but those 4 sq ft would be useful in our small kitchen. If we were ever to redo the kitchen part of me wants to demo the chimney and better utilize that space. Does this sound feasible?
Might be but it would be a job to take out an internal brick chimney to gain a few square feet. Somebody would have to look at how it framed in and whether removing the framing would have structural implications. Single or two-story house? You're also talking about having to close up the hole in the roof. Ready to re-roof at the same time?
 

wahday

Cyburbian
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3,960
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23
Ditto what Ofos said. My brother had this same kind of furnace chimney removed from the middle of his home and converted it to a laundry chute (since it went to the basement where the W/D are). I believe it was a bit tricky removing the bricks, but it is doable. And its very cool.

The other thing I will point out is that a lot of time, these spaces in older homes get used as a chase to run wires, telephone lines or even a vent for additional bathrooms – things added over time. You would want to make sure there is none of that business is going on before removing.
 

Veloise

Cyburbian
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5,601
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28
Floor plan software

Rather than get into removing a chimney, would it make sense to re-think the kitchen and adjacent spaces? For many years, my favorite column in the Sunday paper was by a designer who'd re-draw people's floor plans for them. Her big things were:

--to-go space (shelf), nowadays with charging stations
--landing space for groceries
--mudroom, family entrance
--visual screen for the bathroom from adjoining rooms (who wants to sit at the kitchen table and see the toilet?)

You might want some floor plan software, or the low-tech equivalent, graph paper and post-its cut to size. You could revise the wall space to contain the chimney and use the new wall to include a built-in hutch or a pass-through or broom closet. Maybe add on to the kitchen in a different way and increase the space as well as the usability. Kitchen cab places will also do this (along with lots of upselling) but they don't have the common sense acquired through living in a space.

Rebooting my kitchen was my first big project. Previously the fridge had floated in the space with the two windows, and the stove on the far opposite corner. I moved the cold storage to the solid wall next to the sink, and brought the stove over to the window wall

It just dawned on me that I would love to share some designs for you, if you want to shoot a few photos and send via FB.
 

dandy_warhol

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32
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm nervous enough to not do any home renovations without consulting with a professional. It helps to be friends with the architect who sits on our Historic Pres. Commission. :)

V, our house is an American foursquare so our renovations options are somewhat limited (also due to our bank account). For the most part the flow of the house works there are just somethings that could stand some improvements. Unfortunately those somethings are big ticket items - kitchen, upstairs bathroom, basement.
 

kjel

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Ditto what Ofos said. My brother had this same kind of furnace chimney removed from the middle of his home and converted it to a laundry chute (since it went to the basement where the W/D are). I believe it was a bit tricky removing the bricks, but it is doable. And its very cool.

The other thing I will point out is that a lot of time, these spaces in older homes get used as a chase to run wires, telephone lines or even a vent for additional bathrooms – things added over time. You would want to make sure there is none of that business is going on before removing.
I will ditto this as well after finding all of the above in my current rehab project at work. In a previous project we used it as a vent since we were unable to make it serviceable again.
 

WSU MUP Student

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9,755
Points
34
Our house was built in 1929. It does not have a fireplace but it does have an old chimney that runs through the middle of the house and was formerly connected to the furnace. We got a new HE furnace a few years ago and it just vents out the side of the house. The chimney is only about 4 sq ft. but those 4 sq ft would be useful in our small kitchen. If we were ever to redo the kitchen part of me wants to demo the chimney and better utilize that space. Does this sound feasible?
The chimney runs is next to the kitchen? Open it up a bit and turn it into a brick pizza/bread oven! We have an old chimney in our garage that connects to nothing that I've always wanted to do that to. It has an iron door at the bottom of it (maybe where they could shovel in coal or something?) so for now I just use it as a place to hide Christmas and birthday gifts.
 

ofos

Vintage Cyburbian
Messages
8,278
Points
27
The chimney runs is next to the kitchen? Open it up a bit and turn it into a brick pizza/bread oven! We have an old chimney in our garage that connects to nothing that I've always wanted to do that to. It has an iron door at the bottom of it (maybe where they could shovel in coal or something?) so for now I just use it as a place to hide Christmas and birthday gifts.
Living in the south, no pizza/bread blast furnace ovens in my house! Old chimneys are problematic, most have deteriorated to the point where they have to be re-lined to be safe. I had mine rebuilt from the roof up and then had a fireplace insert installed that uses insulated metal chimney pipe that runs up through the old brick flue. Much safer. FYI, those metal doors were typically ash clean-outs.
 

dandy_warhol

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9,016
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32
Thoughts on patio for slightly sloped backyard

We've been thinking about putting a patio in our backyard. There is about 50' between our back fence/property and the back of our house. We are thinking of a small patio just to improve the functionality and aesthetics of the yard. Our yard is slightly sloped so that the property line is higher than the rear of the house. Based on that info how would you position the patio? We would consult a profession before undertaking any work but I wanted some thoughts/ideas before we do.

Option 1) Install patio so that raised end abuts house. Concerns: This would require the installation of a ramp or steps to the driveway.

Option 2) Install patio so that raised end is in yard. Concerns: Runoff into patio. Would potentially require cutting into yard which a) would disturb tree roots b) require minor retaining wall (?)

Thoughts?
 

kjel

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We've been thinking about putting a patio in our backyard. There is about 50' between our back fence/property and the back of our house. We are thinking of a small patio just to improve the functionality and aesthetics of the yard. Our yard is slightly sloped so that the property line is higher than the rear of the house. Based on that info how would you position the patio? We would consult a profession before undertaking any work but I wanted some thoughts/ideas before we do.

Option 1) Install patio so that raised end abuts house. Concerns: This would require the installation of a ramp or steps to the driveway.

Option 2) Install patio so that raised end is in yard. Concerns: Runoff into patio. Would potentially require cutting into yard which a) would disturb tree roots b) require minor retaining wall (?)

Thoughts?
If you posted a couple photos it might be easier to come up with some options.
 

SW MI Planner

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3,195
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26
We've been thinking about putting a patio in our backyard. There is about 50' between our back fence/property and the back of our house. We are thinking of a small patio just to improve the functionality and aesthetics of the yard. Our yard is slightly sloped so that the property line is higher than the rear of the house. Based on that info how would you position the patio? We would consult a profession before undertaking any work but I wanted some thoughts/ideas before we do.

Option 1) Install patio so that raised end abuts house. Concerns: This would require the installation of a ramp or steps to the driveway.

Option 2) Install patio so that raised end is in yard. Concerns: Runoff into patio. Would potentially require cutting into yard which a) would disturb tree roots b) require minor retaining wall (?)

Thoughts?
Not sure how much of a grade change, or if the patio would be directly adjacent your house, but my vote is to slope away from house toward the back yard. Maybe lower the elevation of the entire patio 9 inches so you have one step up into the house thereby possibly eliminating the need for ramp/steps to driveway and then your retaining wall could be a little taller (and with tile underneath) and have it dual purpose to be used for seating.
 

Veloise

Cyburbian
Messages
5,601
Points
28
Not sure how much of a grade change, or if the patio would be directly adjacent your house, but my vote is to slope away from house toward the back yard. Maybe lower the elevation of the entire patio 9 inches so you have one step up into the house thereby possibly eliminating the need for ramp/steps to driveway and then your retaining wall could be a little taller (and with tile underneath) and have it dual purpose to be used for seating.
:thumbsup:
 

Cardinal

Cyburbian
Messages
10,080
Points
34
Rather than a single patio, build a series of small spaces at different grades. One for a grill, one for a table, and one with a seating wall or stones. Some could be shaded while others might enjoy the sun. You could landscape with different themes for each space. Perhaps one might feature roses, another might be enclosed with shrubberies, and the other could long-blooming perennials. Maybe one is surfaced with cobbles, another with rustic bricks in a herringbone pattern, and the final one uses an open paver filled with moss. You could use a flowing water feature to tie them together.
 

Zoning Goddess

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39
Cost of new kitchen faucet at Lowes, including tax: $214
Numbers running through RJ's brain when he takes out the old faucet, realizes the holes in the countertop are too small for the new one, realizes his cordless drill battery pack is dead, and contemplates getting a plumber out on a Saturday: $300
Look on RJ's face when I say "I have a drill. An electric drill.": Priceless

Been together 8 years, and the man is shocked that I own an electric drill. :r:

But I have to say the new faucet is a vast improvement.
 

Zoning Goddess

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39
Cost of new kitchen faucet at Lowes, including tax: $214
Numbers running through RJ's brain when he takes out the old faucet, realizes the holes in the countertop are too small for the new one, realizes his cordless drill battery pack is dead, and contemplates getting a plumber out on a Saturday: $300
Look on RJ's face when I say "I have a drill. An electric drill.": Priceless

Been together 8 years, and the man is shocked that I own an electric drill. :r:

But I have to say the new faucet is a vast improvement.
It looked good until we had to cram a dozen towels all over the floor to get the leaks. Me, I follow instructions. Rj, not so much: gasket, what gasket? I figure, the manufacturer says put a fucking gasket in, you do it . Silly me.
 

kjel

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It looked good until we had to cram a dozen towels all over the floor to get the leaks. Me, I follow instructions. Rj, not so much: gasket, what gasket? I figure, the manufacturer says put a fucking gasket in, you do it . Silly me.
Why do you let him do such things?
 

Richmond Jake

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43
The gasket was unrelated to the leak. The leak is corrected. The instructions referred to several models of faucets. Sometimes a manufacturer adds extra parts for the other models. They do that to mess mess with your mind. Parts are parts. They don't exist in my mind--what little I have.

At least she called me a "man." I am vindicated...and going golfing.

FML.
 

Zoning Goddess

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39
Why do you let him do such things?
Like I said in another thread, I threw a few "dire warning" hints out, and then poured myself a glass of wine. Oh,and later, got all the towels, laundered the towels...men and directions, ya know?
 

Richmond Jake

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43
The toilet paper holder in the half-bath (used exclusively by yours truly), is ready to fall from its mounting. The question I have for Cyburbia's throbbing brian: do I let it fall completely off the wall or do I proactively repair it? These types of decisions perplex me.
 

Planit

Cyburbian
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11,873
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37
The toilet paper holder in the half-bath (used exclusively by yours truly), is ready to fall from its mounting. The question I have for Cyburbia's throbbing brian: do I let it fall completely off the wall or do I proactively repair it? These types of decisions perplex me.
Go ahead and do it proactively because it will fall off at the most inappropriate time - plus you're (supposedly) a planner and tend to do most things proactively. Make sure you have a glass of wine before, during and after the tedious job.
 

Gedunker

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The toilet paper holder in the half-bath (used exclusively by yours truly), is ready to fall from its mounting. The question I have for Cyburbia's throbbing brian: do I let it fall completely off the wall or do I proactively repair it? These types of decisions perplex me.
Stop leaning on it when you get off the crapper, old man!;);)

Porcelain or mounted on drywall? Porcelain is probably not the area you want to mess with as a duffer. If it's drywall, then you can knock the repair out pretty easily.
 

Midori

Cyburbian
Messages
751
Points
12
Last weekend I thought I'd take stock of the basement bathroom and see what might be involved in installing new self-stick tile. Husband stopped me after I got the baseboards pried off, filled and sanded, wall base primed, and the old linoleum pulled up. I guess I'm committed to the project now...
 

Cardinal

Cyburbian
Messages
10,080
Points
34
...plus you're (supposedly) a planner and tend to do most things proactively...
Don't really understand yet how the planning profession worke, maybe?


1. Identify that there might be a problem with the toilet paper holder. Discuss internally.
2. Approach management to let (her) know about the problem. Receive encouragement to address the problem.
3. Request funding in 2014 budget to hire a consultant to study the problem. Funding request denied. Wait one year.
4. Apply for grant to offset some of the cost. Receive grant requiring 50 percent match.
5. Request funding in 2015 budget to hire a consultant to study the problem. Funding approved.
6. Process grant paperwork. By October you are ready to solicit proposals from consultants.
7. Selected consultant starts work in January 2016. Process begins with stakeholder interviews (household residents, visitors, lender, neighbors, local handyman, etc.) and culminates in three options: a) do nothing; b) repair existing toilet paper dispenser, and c) install new toilet paper dispenser. These are presented at a public meeting where everybody comes to a consensus.
8. Final plan is submitted and adopted. Funds are requested in the 2017 budget to implement recommended option.
9. Management nixes budget request and directs internal staff to "fix the problem".

That is how a planner does it.
 
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