I'm really liking the thermostat so far. I am definitely seeing a more consistent temperature in the house. I do need to fix one issue though. There is no blocking between the return air vent (below) and the thermostat (above). Whenever the heat kicks on, the air in the room blows up through the return air vent and drastically lowers the thermostat temperature reading (I'm talking like 5 degrees!!). This almost always boots on auxiliary heat which is a money pit. Should be simple enough to place a piece of 2x4 up there. I'll probably fire caulk it too, because why not.
I got a $50.00 gift card to Lowes, so I bought some new goodies on Saturday. New toilet seat and handle. I cannot stand the regular toilet seats. I switched everything over to assisted close (if you have kids, this is critical because they'll slam that seat all night). Also switched out my under sink trays, the single one that was on that panel was too small to be of any real use. I think I'll paint the guest bathroom vanity someday soon. It's a pale blue which just looks outdated, not to mention it has crayon and pen marks all over it from the PO's kids.
I have decided to begin the change over to rockers. I'm no electrician so I figured I'd ask here, are there any particular needs to install dimmer switches? I always assumed a dimmer works by limiting the voltage coming through the switch, thereby limiting the brightness of the bulb. I would't see any reason any switch couldn't be a dimmer...
Just in case you still need some input, dimmer switches could work for most switches. I wouldn't put them on ceiling fans(ceiling fan and lights on same switch) and lights that have non-dimable bulbs. Just make sure that you match the dimmer to the switch you replace, i.e. one way switch to one way dimmer, and three way switch to three way dimmer.
Out of curiosity, which Honeywell thermostat did you get? I am looking at getting a wireless thermostat and I am trying to get idea on which one will best work for me.