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being korean i found that writing interesting. i've only been to korea once, when i was 6 (so about 12 years ago), and what i remember of soeul is really only the "suburb" (if it can be called that). I say that because it was a fairly large, old house in a very residential neighborhood, but I could walk to the nearest stores for food. That's about all I remember because I remember being astounded that I could actually walk someplace myself.
My mom has been there a few more times since then, and she says that it's changed more and more each time. The Korea of my 6 years was staunchly Korean. The Soeul of my mom's latest visit a year ago was that of a steadily-international city, not just a korean one.
My mom is a country person, but she still loved the bustle and activity of soeul. (she believes that all american cities are the incarnation of corruption and crime.... *sigh* suburban delusions...)
I've been to Seoul several times as my mom happens to be Korean. It's a dynamic and fascinating city that's got its own international character to it. It's more compact and dense than Tokyo, but not to the same level as Hong Kong. The city is also very decentralized. It has a CBD, but the main office districts throughout the city are scattered. Seoul is often overlooked in East Asia, but in many ways, it is the "second city" of the Pacific Rim, at least in international business.